Kōya-san, Japan’s Sacred Mountain

October 29, 2008

By Aaron Humphrey

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In the forested mountains high above Kyoto, an enclave of temples and monasteries lies delicately arranged amongst the cedars. This is Koya-san (Mount Koya), home to Buddhist monks since the early ninth century and a serene retreat for devout pilgrims and curious travellers alike. As the centre of Japanese esoteric Shingon Buddhism, Mount Koya has seen the development of dozens of holy buildings over the centuries, and is now home to 120 temples; many of them are happy to host visitors for a night or two.

The journey from Kyoto takes about two hours, and as you pull further away from the city by train, the wait between stations grows longer. Time almost seems to go backwards, each station quieter than the last, as progressively smaller towns replace Kyoto’s sprawling suburbs and metropolis. Where the train tracks end, a red cable car awaits to take you on the final, scenic stretch up the mountain.

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It’s best to book a temple stay ahead of time, and there are plenty to choose from, ranging in price from ¥10,000 – ¥20,000 (US$105-$210/£68-£135). Included in that price are two meals, dinner and breakfast, which are prepared by the monks. Meals consist of traditional vegetarian dishes, from nuts and lotus root to tofu soup and tempura leaves, the food is plentiful, and as delicious as it is unique. Sitting on tatami mats and sampling the food of Mount Koya ranks among the most memorable culinary experiences in a country bursting with them.

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After dinner dusk begins to settle on Koya-san, casting an even more mysterious air to the sacred mountain, this is the perfect time to stroll through the cemetery, where thousands of graves and shrines fill the quiet, mossy forest. This is Japan’s largest graveyard, home to stone jizo statues and memorials of all sizes, centred around the mausoleum where the founder of Shingon lies, not dead, according to the faithful, but merely meditating for the arrival of the Buddha of the Future. Here, many hundreds of small lanterns glow a colour between red and ginger throughout the night. Some of them are said to have remained lit for over a millennium, part of Mount Koya’s timeless serenity.

Getting there: Travel by train to Gokurakubashi station at the bottom of Koya-san. From Gokurakubashi visitors take a cable car to the top of the mountain, which takes 5 minutes. For more detailed travel information, click here

Stay:

Many Buddhist monasteries on Koya-san function as hotels and provide traditional accommodation that includes an evening meal and breakfast. Try Shojoshin-in one of the oldest temples on Koya-san, which offers Japanese style guest rooms as well as a “hanare” (private guest residence with bathroom), Japanese-style gardens and a pond.

See:

Kongobuji temple: Koyasan Shingon Buddhism’s headquarters. The temple boasts a stone garden that is said to outshine many of Kyoto’s best.

Oku-no-In: the mausoleum of Kukai, the monk who first settled Koya-san, which is illuminated by thousands of lanterns.

Konpon Daito pagoda and the Garan temple: Garan Temple is one Mount Koya’s most sacred temples and was designed by Kukai. The Konpon Daito pagoda sits within the temple’s grounds and is said to represent both the central point Mount Koya and all of Japan.

Photos:

Lanterns #3 by mrlins via Flickr (Creative Commons).

Koyasan Mountain Rail by Sofia Brightsea via Flickr (Creative Commons).

koyasan – 高野山 by kanjiroushi via Flickr (Creative Commons).


A Low-Key Getaway: Lopez Island, Washington, USA

September 30, 2008

By Ann Marie Svilar

Covering 29.5 square miles, Lopez Island, Washington is the first ferry stop in a cluster of islands called the San Juans, that rise from the Puget Sound and hug the Canadian border. Even during bustling tourist season Lopez Island will make you turn off the laptop and slow down. Wave to the blonde woman named Margie manning the ferry dock as you arrive. She will wave back. Waving is a tradition on this island; there is even a “Lopez wave” consisting of two fingers in a locked together peace sign.

As you make your first twists from the ferry dock, smell the dense trees and dried wild grass. Look for deer: there are many and they are domesticated enough to walk right up to you. Notice a Madrona tree with bark that looks like red peeling paper; scratch the trunk and it turns green. Look out for a Great Blue Heron, they are an elegant and common Lopez Island bird. You can find them almost anywhere in tidal lagoons along the seashore.

You’ll see that most people name their driveways after themselves or something original like Pterodactyl Lane, or Baroque ‘n Glass Lane. Mailboxes are painted with bald eagles and rich gardens are covered with tall fences to keep deer out. Some people live in make-shift buses, clusters of trailers, or in an A-Frame house. Stop by the Lopez Island Vineyards and pick up a bottle of Siegerrebe. Note that most streets don’t have yellow lines and traffic is minimal in any direction. Enjoy the quiet and keep going.

If you’re camping, Spencer Spit is the best place to stay. Located on the East side of the island, you can feel good karma there; the Spencer family sold the land to the state for much less than the private offers they received in order to make a state park that everyone could enjoy. Shirley (Spencer) Plummer is 87 years old, and recently became a great, great grandmother, she sits in her living room that overlooks Spencer Spit. It is a stretch of beach like no other, with driftwood, rocks and sand coming together into a single point that stares at Frost Island. The driftwood is easily made into forts. A muddy lagoon lines the spit to the North like a seam and smells as murky as it looks. Pitch your tent along the trees at the mouth of the spit; light a fire; cook some s’mores.

If you like beautiful beaches and down to earth people, you will love Lopez Island. It is a getaway in the simplest sense. Below are 7 things you should do whilst visiting the island.

Iceberg Point – Just past Agate Beach there is a small place to park and then walk into what looks like private residence. When you hit the tree line, turn right down a dirt path; walk through a gate and onto a maintained trail. After less than a mile the trees will open up to the most vast part of the Island; the unprotected South side. Your landscape will be big hills and rocks with tall grass that smells like dry summers. Your view will be of an ocean that seems to go on forever until you see the Olympic Peninsula and Olympic Mountains far in the distance.

Sharks Reef – My favourite spot on the island is Sharks Reef. The water here is treacherous because of undertow and sometimes you will see kayakers twirling and paddling their way through the narrow corridor that separates Lopez Island from San Juan Island. Large pieces of sea kelp that look like women with mermaid hair line the rocks. Here is where you see some of the best tide pools on the Island full of lipids’ and sea anemones.

Saturday Farmers Market – Farmers Markets are special no matter where you go. Lopez market’s charm lies in its small size. My favourite stall is Marianna’s clothing, made of scraps of recycled cloth. She also has a store in the main part of town called Okeydo. Also visit my parent’s booth at the market where they sell my brother’s photos every Saturday. Introduce yourself!

Horse Drawn Farms – This eco-friendly farm used to use horses to farm the land, but now they use oxen. Produce is pre-picked and you can just drive up, make your selection and leave money based on the honour system. It’s as simple and trusting as that.

Community Center – The centre hosts music and community theatre all year long. While you are there, walk North-east to the skate park where young kids are dropping into small half pipes.

The Bay Café – The Bay Café has the most expensive food on the island, averaging at around $20 a plate. But it also offers the most brilliant place to have dinner and watch the sunset as it lies down for the night behind Friday Harbour. The restaurant is run by two local men, with a lot of energy, who know how to bake an amazing cedar salmon. You’ll also be guaranteed great hospitality.

Lopez Island Kayaks – Being on an island is amazing enough, getting the chance to see it up close from the water is special too. Rent a kayak, get some advice on routes and get close to the water. If you time your float trip between April and October you may see big rusty-red Lion’s mane jellyfish as they make their way towards the beach at low tide.

TRAVELLER’S CHECK LIST

Getting there:

By ferry… Travel from Anacortes on the mainland to Lopez Island. The journey is approximately 85 miles and takes about 45 minutes. For pricing info and to buy tickets click here. On the ferry keep your eyes peeled for bald eagles, seals, otters and the occasional orca whale.

By plane… Kenmore Air fly direct from Seattle to Lopez Island daily. For more information on schedules, pricing and booking click here. The journey takes about 1hr 10 mins.

Where to stay:

  1. Lopez Islander Resort; PO Box 459, Lopez Island, WA; desk@lopezislander.com
  2. MacKaye Harbor Inn; 949 MacKaye Harbor Road Lopez Island, WA 98261; (888) 314-6140; innkeeper@mackayeharborinn.com. From USD 135 per night.
  3. Edenwild; 1-800-606-0662; edenwild@rockisland.com. From USD 170 per night.
  4. Lopez Lodge; Lopez Lodge, Lopez Island, WA 98261; (360) 468-2816; needle@rockisland.com. From USD 70 per night.

For information on camping on Lopez Island, click here

Where to eat:

  1. Bay Café – about $30 a person. 9 Old Post Road Suite C, PO Box 692, Lopez, WA 98261; Tel: 360.468.3700
  2. Love Dog Café – $10-$15 per person. 1 Village Center, PO Box 633, Lopez Island, WA 98261; Tel: 360.468.2150.
  3. HollyB’s Bakery – $5 or less. Lopez Plz, Lopez Island, WA 98261; Tel: 360.468.2133.
  4. Vortex – $10 per person for wraps and smoothies. Homestead Bldg C, Lopez Island, WA, 98261; Tel: 360.468.4740.
  5. Isabel’s Espresso – $5 or less for espresso drinks. 308 Lopez Rd, Lopez Island, WA, 98261; Tel: 360.468.4114

What to see:

For general information about visit the Lopez Island visitors bureau online here

  1. Iceburg Point and Sharks Reef: click here for a map of Lopez.
  2. Saturday Farmer’s Market: Community Center.
  3. Lopez Island Kayak: located at Marinas on Fisherman’s Bay 360-468-2847
  4. Horse Drawn Farms: 2823 Port Stanley Road

Events:

  1. Fourth of July on Lopez: fun run, parade, salmon bbq and fireworks
  2. Tour de Lopez (bike tour): last Saturday of April
  3. Lopez Farmer’s Market: May to Sept.
  4. Artist’s Studio Tour: last weekend in August

For more information on Lopez Island events click here

All photographs ©David Svilar.


Karsts and rafts in Yangshuo, China

September 26, 2008

Top 10 Tips for a weekend break in Yangshuo, China – from how to avoid a hot air balloon crash to rafting the Yulong River.

Even at 500 metres in a faulty hot air balloon Yangshuo is a breathtaking place. At that nail-biting height the region’s famous limestone karsts look even more dramatic; their pointed peaks rising up from flat, green rice fields that spread out from the Li and Yulong rivers.

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The town of Yangshuo was until recently a sleepy provincial village. Now it’s a bustling tourist hub that has seen phenomenal expansion. Visitors are drawn to the town by the busload, eager to soak up its stunning views and raft down rivers made famous through centuries of Chinese paintings and, more recently, scenes from The Painted Veil.

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Parts of Yangshuo can feel a bit like a Chinese Disneyland, especially around West Street. If you’re prepared to go off-the-beaten track, and to spend just ¥100 a day on using a local guide, it’s easy to experience a Yangshuo that’s as far away from package tourism and flag-following lemmings as you can imagine.

TIP 1: The lovely Lilly

We used Lilly Lu for the two days that we were there. She speaks excellent English and can arrange everything from a hot air balloon rescue mission to airport transfers to lightshow tickets to unspoiled stretches of river to simple, but utterly delicious, local dining. Lilly has lived in Yangshuo and its nearby villages all her life. She’s an expert on what to do and can guide you to places that package tourists can only dream of. For Lilly’s contact details and more info on her tour and services, please leave us a comment with your email address at the bottom of this post.

TIP 2: Cycle far, far away

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Get those legs pumping and be prepared to spend at least 2.5 – 3 hours in the saddle. Don’t fret: it’s flat and easy cycling along river banks and through stunning fields and tiny villages. Bike all the way up to the 400-year old Yulong Bridge and then have lunch. If you’re with Lilly she’ll show you where to go, but if you’re heading up alone make sure you go to the first restaurant downstream from the bridge. The food is fantastic – lots of fresh vegetables stir-fried with garlic, the delicious local specialty “beer fish” and local chicken dishes as well. Note: this is not for the squeamish… if you order fish or chicken you’ll see the cooks fetching live catfish from the river or live chickens from a hutch that they polish off in the kitchen and then gut. It’s really not that bad, and the end result is well worth any misgivings you might have about ending an innocent life!

TIP 3: When it comes to the rivers, don’t follow the crowds

The river trips in Yangshuo are one of the big highlights. At the weekend, especially if it’s a public holiday, hundreds of people flock to the water to ride on bamboo rafts and squirt each other with enormous water pistols. If throngs of over excited water rats don’t spell tranquility in your book, make sure you make the effort get away from the crowds.

For the Yulong River – bamboo rafts punted by boatmen – spend 3 hours in the saddle biking up to Yulong Bridge and escape the crowds. You’ll be rewarded with a 2 hour trip downstream in complete quiet and isolation as it only gets busy for the last 10 minutes (and there it’s phenomenonally busy). For the Li River – motorized bamboo rafts – hire a car for the day (only ¥300 – ¥550) and drive to XingPing Town. From there head upstream and you’ll be on more or less your own.

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TIP 4: Get up early

Set your alarm for 6am and head to Moon Hill. This karst peak has a hole straight through it that makes for some seriously impressive photographs.

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You can hike to the top of the peak up a concrete staircase. The steps are pretty steep and it can be hard going unless you’re a regular gym bunny. During the summer months the weather gets sticky at about 9am so it’s well worth rising early to beat the heat. Getting there before breakfast also means you’ll have Moon Hill entirely to yourself; we did and it was amazing.

Once you’re at the top you can scramble up a dirt track right to the top of the hole. The guides tell you to allow 1.5 hours for a round-trip. If you’re fit it’ll take more like 45 minutes.

TIP 5: Breakfast late

The tourist groups tend to leave Yangshuo after breakfast to go sightseeing. If you’re prepared to stick around you can wander the town’s pretty streets in relative peace. We headed in for breakfast at around 9:30 / 10am and everyone had left. After breakfast at Café Mimosa (16 Gui Hua Road) we spent a relaxed hour exploring old streets that are normally swarming with crowds.

TIP 6: Stay out of town

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Daily bicycle rents are cheap (from ¥5 – ¥20 per day), as are taxis (from about ¥30 per trip), so it’s easy to travel in from a hotel that’s slightly out of town.

We stayed at the Li River Retreat, which was about a 10 minute bike ride from the centre of Yangshuo. The hotel has stunning, un-obscured views from its terraces and balconies. Almost all the rooms have private balconies and they’re clean and very reasonably priced (from ¥250 – ¥490 per night). Staff are friendly and can speak English. The Yangshuo Mountain Retreat also gets good reviews from friends who have stayed there (from HK$229 – HK$800 per night).

If you’re prepared to stay further outside Yangshuo, the new Hotel of Modern Art gets fantastic write ups (from ¥2080 per night). It’s the only hotel in China that’s a member of the prestigious Relais and Chateaux alliance.

TIP 7: Don’t hot air balloon unless you’re very brave

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We had a bad experience. At 500m our pilot laughingly announced that we had a small problem. Pointing inside the balloon he told us to look up at the hole that had appeared in the silk. We didn’t think it was so funny and spent the 30 minutes it took for us to land in palpations of worry. Added to this terror was my

crippling fear of heights: I should never have got into that basket…

Other friends tell of a white-knuckle ride that involved crash landing in the trees on the side of a steep karst.

Although everyone in Yangshuo does their best to convince you that the balloon pilots are highly experienced, that it’s not dangerous and that there have never been any accidents don’t believe them. Hot air ballooning is by far and away the most expensive activity you can do in Yangshuo (¥700 – ¥900 per person for 70 minutes) and the local operators want your business.

TIP 8: Check out Fuli

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This small town is home to families of fan makers. For centuries Fuli’s inhabitants have painted fans and scrolls depicting traditional scenes. They used to make fans for the queen of one of the Chinese dynasties.

If you want to buy scrolls or fans whilst you’re in Yangshuo it’s worth hiring a car and visiting Fuli as they’re about a third of the price and of a much higher quality than the ones selling in Yangshuo’s markets. Expect to pay about ¥200 for a big silk fan.

TIP 9: If you’re going for the weekend forget about Guilin

The boat trip down the Li River from Guilin to Yangshuo takes about six hours and you have to pack onto a big cruiser. If you’re only visiting for the weekend it makes far more sense to arrange for a car to pick you up from Guilin airport and drive you straight to Yangshuo that night. The stretches of river around Yangshuo are quieter and you can travel them on a traditional bamboo raft away from hordes of snap-happy tourists.

Guilin is also a city with 1.32 million inhabitants – it’s not the quaint town some brochures depict. If you’re in search of peace and quiet ditch the city and head straight for Yangshuo. Hotels can organise a car from the airport (¥380 one way, travel time 2 hours) as can Lilly.

TIP 10: Don’t go in a guided group to the light show

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It’s not as complicated as people have you believe. If your hotel or guide organizes the tickets for you then arrange a driver and go on your own. You’ll save being herded about like cattle and will be able to escape the crowds and mayhem much more quickly. Tickets to the light show cost ¥180 per person.

All photos © Emma Torry / Bryony Greenwell


Finding Paradise in the Perhentian Islands

September 11, 2008

By Rachel Turner

Groggy with sleep, I pulled back the mosquito net from around my bed and headed to the bathroom for a shower. With my hand on the tap, I looked up at the ceiling. A scream caught in my throat as I grabbed a towel and rushed out of the wooden chalet into the early morning sun. I bounded down the stairs and headed toward the front desk to ask someone to remove the wine bottle-sized gecko from my bathroom. Before I made it though I was greeted by another lizard; this one as big as a toddler.

When I landed on Malaysia’s Perhentian Kecil (“Small Perhentian”), I was stunned. I didn’t believe that a place like this still existed. I thought finding such a sweet slice of paradise would require a mid-Pacific shipwreck. But there I was, a mere 19 kilometres from mainland Malaysia, toe deep in island clichés. The clear turquoise water quietly slurped at white beaches of sugar-fine sand. Tiny wooden chalets stood alert at the jungle’s edge, ready for lodgers. Lush green flora blanketed the soaring cliffs. Every sunset was postcard perfect, every day bright and hot. Save for my abnormally large lizard neighbours, the place was straight out of a fantasy.

Given that the island I was staying on was little more than sand and jungle, being entertained indoors was out of the question. I couldn’t wait to dive into the warm, clear water. Dive shops are littered all along Long Beach (the more populous of Kecil’s two beaches). They offer a variety of courses for beginners, as well as a ton of fun dives. Divers can swim through the Temple of the Sea, check out the coral garden at De Lagoon, or explore the sunken Sugar Ship Wreck. I was told that the water surrounding the island is home to barracudas, sea turtles, triggerfish, unicornfish, groupers, and the list goes on and on.

I’m more adept at skimming the surface and for RM 40 (US$11.50 / £6.50) I joined an all-day snorkelling tour. Bright and early, I boarded a boat with only three others. Our first stop was a coral garden where curious fish swam around me, brave ones nipping at my fingertips. Over the course of the afternoon we stopped at Shark Point, home to black tipped reef sharks, swam with sea turtles near Perhentian Besut, and stopped for lunch in a quaint fishing village. Before heading back to home base, we made a final stop on a deserted beach to soak up the sun.

My days spent in the Perhentians involved a lot of rest and relaxation. I swam, snorkelled, and strolled through the jungle. I popped down to the Bubu Long Beach Resort for a massage in a beachside cabana. I sipped fruity cocktails while watching the technicolour sunset. The island was without a serious party vibe. Pounding all-night discos were replaced with driftwood tables on the sand, lively conversation, and a few beers amongst new friends.

On Perhentian Kecil, most hotels and restaurants are scattered along Long Beach and Coral Bay, on the opposite site of the island. Long Beach, the livelier of the two, was where the majority of backpackers congregated. I checked out a few guesthouses and settled on the Panorama Chalets (http://malaysia-panorama.com), smack in the middle of the beach. For RM 100 (US$29 / £16), I secured a double room complete with air con and hot water… when the electricity was on (be sure to ask about electricity hours before checking into your hotel. Most places do not have 24-hour electricity). Movies are shown every night, and many room rates include free dinner from a fully-stocked restaurant.

Clean, clear air, peaceful solitude, and a pace just above a standstill drew me to Malaysia’s Perhentian Islands. Forgoing big-city conveniences like Internet cafes and roads made me not want to leave. While there, bright white sand, lush jungle, polychromatic coral, and a few abnormally large lizards surrounded me. By the time I left, I truly felt like I had got away from it all.

TRAVELLER’S CHECK

Getting There: If you are starting your journey from Kuala Lumpur, catch an Air Asia flight to Kota Bharu (www.airasia.com). From the airport, catch a taxi or bus to the ferry terminal in Kuala Besut. A taxi with air-con will cost around RM 70. From there, hop on a speed boat for a 45-minute ride to Perhentian Kecil. Boat tickets cost RM 60 each way, plus pay the extra RM 2 fee to be dropped off at Long Beach instead of at the jetty. A cheaper, slower ferry is also available.

Where to Stay: Panorama Chalet is located in the centre of Long Beach. Double rooms with air conditioning and attached bathroom cost RM 100. Opt for shared bath and fan-cooled rooms to cut down on costs. Visit their website for more information: http://malaysia-panorama.com. If you choose to stay on the opposite side of the island at Coral Bay, check out the Senja Bay Resort. Here a fan room will set you back RM 100. The views from this hotel are stunning, and the staff is friendly. Holiday packages and other rates can be found at www.senjabay.com

Where to Eat: Most restaurants on Kecil are attached to hotels. The Panorama Chalet restaurant serves up local Malay food as well as western favourites. For a meal that’s a little more up-market, check out the menu at Bubu Long Beach Resort.


A DIY Tour of Beijing’s New Architectural Stars

August 21, 2008

By Stephan Larose for ChinaTravel.net

A self-guided tour of Beijing’s new architectural marvels, from the Bird’s Nest to the Egg to the Cube to the Wingless Dragon and beyond….

If you’ve been paying any attention to China at all in the past year, you’ve no doubt caught the hype on the Discovery Channel’s Extreme Engineering or in countless newspaper and magazine articles. Beijing—long famed for ancient classics of Chinese architecture, from the Forbidden City and Temple of Heaven to the Great Wall — has been boldly remaking itself with one futuristic architectural statement building after another, inviting the world’s most innovative starchitects to make their marks.

If you’re in Beijing for the Olympics or just for a visit, you’ll want to check out the city’s new cast of starchitect-designed buildings, from the Egg to the Bird’s Nest and beyond. But there’s no need to line up a tour guide—here at ChinaTravel.net, we’ve got you covered with a quick outline for an independent self-guided tour of Beijing’s newest architectural marvels. All you’ll need is a pair of walking shoes, a bottle of water, change for the subway and, of course, your camera!

Norman Foster’s Wingless Dragon, Beijing’s Terminal 3

That’s right, you’ve just gotten off the plane and already you’re there! Another building in a long line of made-in-China world’s __est structures, this one, a glass and steel dragon of unprecedented size, is touted as the largest and most advanced airport building in the world.

Jaw-droppingly vast in scale, Terminal 3’s most impressive fact may be the speed with which this monster was put up. Bigger than all of London’s Heathrow terminals combined (and perhaps 1,000 times as efficient and 500 times less obnoxious), Beijing’s Terminal 3 went up in less time than it took just to conduct Heathrow Terminal Five’s planning inquiry, making it a tribute to central planning and to the steely determination of the 50,000 workers responsible for finishing it in time to welcome hordes of Olympics tourists.

Terminal 3’s 3.25 km of feng-shui-friendly red and gold concourses perfectly match the dominant colours of Beijing’s prize attractions, the Summer Palace and the Forbidden City—a respectful gesture to China’s past and traditions. Looking forward, by 2020 the terminal is expected to process over 50 million passengers a year. Think that’s enough to handle China’s growing share of air traffic? Think again—there are plans to build a staggering 96 more airports throughout the country, though it’s a safe bet that none will rival the jewel of Beijing Capital’s crown.

After taking a look around, hop onto the newly opened Airport Express subway and take it to the first stop: Sanyuanqiao Station (this is assuming you don’t need to hit the hotel and sleep off a transcontinental flight—if you’re into contemporary architecture, we recommend checking out one of the following new hotels: the Kempinski’s Commune by the Great Wall or the Hotel Kapok).

Disembark and transfer to Line 10, heading to Bagou Station. Keep your eyes peeled—you’ll want to get off at Beitucheng Station, which exits onto the opening of the massive Olympic Green and the site of your next superstar buildings, and perhaps the most recognizable of them all.

The Bird’s Nest (Niaochao) and Watercube (Shuilifang)

The Olympic Greens, Beijing’s newest urban parkland, are great for walking and sightseeing — they’re full of Olympic-themed sculpture, art and fun rest spots. To get to the Bird’s Nest, walk north on Beichen Lu, and soon you’ll see it on your right with the Watercube on your left.

The Bird’s Nest — officially known as Beijing National Stadium — is easily the most iconic of Beijing’s Olympic structures. It’s hosting all Olympic track and field events and Beijing football matches (Shanghai Stadium will also see some football action), all to be played before crowds of 100,000. If you’re among them, you’ll be one of the privileged few to appreciate Herzog and deMeuron’s architectural masterpiece up close.

Monstrous steel elements weighing up to 350 tons a piece have been intertwined in a way that actually makes this gargantuan structure look delicate. The building has received both praise and criticism for its unconventional and potentially risky design — over 70% of the building’s weight hangs over the audience’s head.

Critics notwithstanding, there’s no doubt the Bird’s Nest represents a massive accomplishment for the Chinese. As an architectural marvel, an unmistakable landmark and an iconic Olympic image, it will undoubtedly be a source of pride for years to come.

The Watercube, although less grandiose in scale, almost manages to upstage its neighbour. A childlike simplicity and enchanting bubble motif mask an incredibly sophisticated design. The builders, a consortium of Chinese and Australian firms, employed a quasi-magical material called ETFE, a species of teflon, to give the cube its bubblicious glam quotient.

Designed to react to changing light conditions, it’s the material responsible for the Water Cube’s stunning visual effects, which are best viewed at night. The walls, which capture up to 90% of ambient and solar heat, slowly shift through a range of colours. It’s almost enough to make you forget that the action is inside, not outside the building.

After you’re done taking in these two Olympic icons, hop on to the subway and head back down to Beitucheng Station, where you’ll transfer back to Line 10, this time heading in the opposite direction, towards Jinsong Station. Exit at Jintaixizhao Station. When you exit, make your way north along the East Third Ring North Road, and you’ll see building four of your tour almost immediately.

Rem Koolhass’s Twisted Masterpiece: The CCTV National HQ

The new CCTV headquarters is undoubtedly the world’s most unconventional high rise, and, like the Bird’s Nest and Wingless Dragon, it’s already earned itself a few amusing nicknames, including the dakucha or the “big pants” and the less flattering, but more literally accurate, waiqu dalou (歪曲大楼) or “twisted building,” with a heavy implication of “twisted news,” though we honestly can’t imagine why the home of China’s state television media would warrant such a sour sobriquet.

Sure, there’s lots of controversy surrounding this gravity-defying behemoth, but one thing is certain: this building cements Beijing’s reputation as a global centre for experimental architectural design. The alarming angles and bending bridge section may seem chancy for earthquake-prone Beijing, but the design incorporates a massive encapsulating grid of diagonal beams that thicken around stress points to minimize the risk.

For the less sceptical, the building’s eyebrow-raising design represents a consciousness shift away from the rigid mindsets of careful control of social order towards something more improvisational and open minded. Check it out: you be the judge (note , however, that any change in mindset hasn’t extended to the interior of this fabulous building, which remains closed to any but CCTV employees and special guests).

After snapping a few pics you’ll want to hop back on the metro and head south (same direction as before) and transfer to Line 1 at Guomao Station. Head west towards Pinguoyuan and get off at Tian’anmen West. This is the last stop on your tour, right in Beijing’s cultural heart, near Tian’anmen Square and the Forbidden City. So once you’re done admiring the new National Centre for the Performing Arts, you’ll be able to join the tourist throngs wandering Beijing’s most famed ancient landmarks.

Paul Andrew’s Egg

Many visitors will probably find this to be Beijing’s prettiest new structure, with its smooth graceful lines and curves. Be that as it may, “the Egg” seems to be the building that’s gotten the most flack from Beijingers. They’ve even called it huai dan, the “Rotten Egg,” for disrupting Beijing’s feng shui.

The architects mindfully incorporated the circle-and-square / heaven-and-earth theme present in so many pinnacles of Chinese culture, like the Summer Palace, but, if many locals are to be believed, they flubbed it. The Egg’s square half thoroughly disrupts the concentric circles weaving out from the Forbidden City, and unfortunately, that’s the motif around which all of Beijing was originally designed. People say it’s an impostor and an alien monstrosity. And there is indeed a drastic contrast between this über-modern structure and that epitome of tradition sitting next door, the Forbidden City.

Still, despite all the local disparagement, many visitors are certain to fall in love with Paul Andrew’s Egg. The sky is mirrored its semi-transparent, golden-netted glass walls, allowing onlookers outside to enjoy the play of colours as the lights of dawn and dusk interact with the building’s massive titanium and glass shell

Now you’re done with your tour of Beijing’s 21st century icons, and, if you start early enough, you’ll have time left to explore the city’s older side, from Tian’anmen Square to the Forbidden City and Beihai Park.

Enjoy!

All images © ChinaTravel.net


China made easy

August 18, 2008

Travel + Leisure magazine has made life easy for visitors to China with their tips and tools to help travellers a successful trip to the middle kingdom.

In their words, “China can seem as impenetrable as it is imposing. Consider the numbers: it’s the world’s most populous nation (1.3 billion), where more than 100 cities have populations over a million. Fifty-six ethnic groups are spread across 22 wildly distinct provinces and five autonomous regions, in a landmass slightly larger than the U.S. Its history seems limitless and its traditions just as deep. But here and now, change is the only real constant—and it is accelerating at a dizzying pace. (One thousand new cars hit the streets of Beijing every day.)”

No wonder so many newcomers to China find the country so intimidating.

Itinerary wise, T+L recommends the following highlights:

Beijing: 2–3 days

China’s political, historical, and cultural capital demands at least three days—for the familiar landmarks of Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City, and also for Beijing’s 21st-century architecture, such as the “Bird’s Nest” Olympic National Stadium by Herzog & de Meuron and the glass-and-titanium dome that is the National Grand Theater. China’s contemporary art scene finds its nexus in the galleries and cafés of the Dashanzi Art District, home to the new Ullens Center for Contemporary Art. Beijing’s atmospheric hutong, or traditional alleyways, are fast disappearing; explore the bustling ones off Nanluoguxiang, near the 13th-century Drum and Bell towers. Then check out the Legation Quarter, a high-end restaurant, entertainment, and cultural development set within the former American Embassy compound. And save a morning to stroll the manicured, 660-acre grounds of the Temple of Heaven, site of the circular Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, the 15th-century apogee of Chinese ritual architecture.

The Great Wall

Numerous stretches of the Great Wall are easily accessible from Beijing (ask your hotel to arrange a car or bus tour). But avoid the tourist trap of Badaling and head to the slightly less trammeled Mutianyu section, a 90-minute drive northeast of the Forbidden City. Early morning is best; try Asia 1 on 1 (asia1on1.com) for day trips.

Shanghai: 2–3 days

First stop: the riverfront promenade known as the Bund, with its Art Deco, Neoclassical, and Beaux-Arts façades, bars and shops, and views of the space-age towers of Pudong. In People’s Park you’ll find the Shanghai Museum and the Museum of Contemporary Art. Weekdays are the best time to wander among the pine trees and ponds of the 16th-century Yuyuan Gardens. Xintiandi was the birthplace of the Chinese Communist Party; now this restored two-block district is defined by upscale shops and restaurants. The leafy, rustic French Concession is the favored destination for cutting-edge fashion and designs for the home. Shanghai’s latest secret? Lane 248, a gritty, narrow street now inhabited by artsy cafés and intimate boutiques, hidden behind Taikang Road.

Guilin: 2 days

(Two hours by air from Shanghai.) With its sheer limestone peaks jutting up from the Li River, Guilin is straight out of a traditional Chinese landscape painting, and remains one of China’s most breathtaking sights. Take in the view from Solitary Beauty Peak and marvel at the formations of the Reed Flute Cave. Spring and fall are best; avoid the heat of July and the crowds of the holiday seasons.

Xi’an: 2 days

(Two hours by air from Beijing.) China’s ancestral capital is renowned for its “terra-cotta army,” created during the Qin dynasty (221–207 B.C.): thousands of life-size clay warriors stand in formation as part of the funerary complex of China’s first emperor, with much more yet to be excavated. You’ll need at least two days here to take in the warriors, see the Shang dynasty bronze relics at the Shaanxi History Museum, walk along the Old City walls, and visit the Da Mai market.

Datong: 2 days

(One hour by air or six hours by scenic train ride from Beijing.) Majestic Qing dynasty frescoes are the standout in the celebrated temple district. Nearby excursions include the awesome Buddhist sculptures in the Yungang Grottoes and the Hanging Temple of Mount Hengshan, which clings precipitously to the side of a cliff. Not far away are some especially beautiful eroded mud-brick ruins of the Great Wall.

The article also includes must-read taxi tips, hotel recommendations, shopping advice and strategies, must-eat food, and six great new books on China. Happy days.


10 Offbeat Australian Places

August 13, 2008

by Elisabeth Sowerbutts

There’s a whole lot more to Australia than the Sydney Opera House and Ayers Rock. In fact most of Australia’s stunning and unusual sights are completely missed by travellers who focus on the well-worn East Coast trail from Sydney to Queensland. Here’s a selection of some Australian places that you may have missed: see all these and you’ll have seen more than most of the locals!

West Macdonald Ranges and Kings Canyon, Northern Territory: Every visitor wants to see Ayers Rock, so go and see it, just make sure that you take the back road to Alice Springs via Kings Canyon and the West MacDonald Ranges. The colours and gorges of this area have inspired artists for years: visit and you’ll know why.

Litchfield National Park, Northern Territory: You may have heard of Kakadu National Park south east of Darwin, but what about nearby Litchfield National Park? Litchfield doesn’t have as many sealed roads, cappuccinos or tourists, but is that why you go to the territory’s tropical north? Instead experience remote water holes and amazing bird life.

Lawn Hill, Queensland: Most of northern Queensland is off-limits for swimming, well unless you are a crocodile that is. Lawn Hill is an oasis, a beautiful gorge of warm thermal water, bird life and safe swimming. It’s the only place you can swim outside of a swimming pool between the Gulf of Carpentaria and Mount Isa. The campground consists of secluded sites within gum trees.

Winton, Queensland: Winton, a tiny country town, is the jumping off spot to see the dinosaur stampede footprints at nearby Lark Quarry. Spend a day in Winton itself, have a drink at the art deco North Gregory Hotel and visit the tacky-sounding, but incredibly entertaining and informative, Waltzing Matilda Centre.

Bungle Bungles, Western Australia: Unknown to the outside world until about 20 years ago, this enormous of area eroded landscape looks like something from a CGI special effects department. In the north of the state the moon-like landscape is so extensive that you have to take a flight to appreciate it.

Cape le Grande National Park, Western Australia: Near to the town of Esperance, a remote port on the Southern coast, are the deserted and stunning beaches of Cape le Grande National Park. The sand is blindingly white, almost pure quartz, and it literally squeaks when you walk on it. The sea is an incredible shade of turquoise blue, and seals were the only surfers on the day we visited.

Kalgoorlie, Western Australia: Many visitors go to Bendigo or Ballarat in Victoria to see a historic mining town. Head instead to Kalgoorlie and see a real, living breathing town whose historic buildings are still in use. Visit the “superpit”, a working gold mine right in the centre of town, and check out the “skimpy” bars full of modern-day miners and half-clad waitresses. No, Kalgoorlie is not politically correct, but it’s definitely authentic.

Old Ghan Railway Track, South Australia: This remote outback road, along the historic Ghan railway line, is much less travelled than the better known Birdsville Track. You can take the luxurious modern Ghan train from Adelaide all the way to Darwin, or get your hands dirty and grab a 4WD. The 4WD track takes you along the more authentic, remote and beautiful old Ghan track that skirts Lake Eyre. Look out for genuine railway sleepers and pins, which are yours for the taking. Most of the towns along this route died when the trains stopped in the 1970s.

Coober Pedy, South Australia: Subterranean towns are rare. Even rarer are real towns where people, not just tourists, live underground to cut heating and air con bills. Churches, shops, motels and campgrounds are all available underground here. The name ‘Coober Pedy’ comes from the local Aboriginal phrase “white fella’s hole in the ground”; the town is also famous for being the opal capital of the world.

Franklin River, Tasmania: Tasmania’s remote West Coast receives a lot of rain, and the dark temperate rain forest is a world away from mainland Australia’s deserts and tropics. The remote and brooding landscape of the Franklin River is sinister and appealing at the same time. You can see why the early convicts were desperate to escape, and why so few of them managed to so.


The stuff of Parisian fantasies

July 24, 2008

Everyone has a Paris that they fantasise about. Some dream of dining in candlelit bistros, others hanker after markets heaving with cheeses and warm baguettes, perhaps you imagine getting lost in a maze of old streets, stumbling upon delicious patisseries and hidden courtyards.

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The sad truth is that whatever your particular Paris fantasy is, it’s hard to find in reality. The City of Lights is a big and busy capital: tourists swarm, noses in guidebooks, from The Louvre to the Musée d’Orsay to the Eiffel Tower to the Champs Elysees to Montmartre. Getting off the beaten track is no mean feat. Many of the city’s rarest treats are almost impossible to find, eluding even the most avid of guidebook writers behind unassuming doors.

So, what if for €175, less than the cost of a pair of Parisian Louboutins, you could find your fantasy? Richard Nahem, a native New Yorker, has been living in Paris for three years with one mission: to show people the city he loves and the one that tourists seldom see. From the moment he made the move to France he was inundated with requests from friends and acquaintances to show people the “real” Paris and now he’s made a business of it, Eye Prefer Paris Tours, which dovetails with the places that he features on his blog Eye Prefer Paris.

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Richard’s tours cater to a maximum of 6ish people so you’re guaranteed a personalised experience. Based on clients’ interests tours take a specific theme – e.g. shopping, markets and gourmet food, architecture and culture. Standard tours (€175) last three hours, those looking for more can extend to a full day, three days or a week if needs be.

Most tours centre on the Marais district, Richard’s home and area of expertise, which spreads across the third and fourth arrondissements. Le Marais is one of Paris’s most impressive areas, packed with 16th and 17th century private mansions, secret courtyards, neighbourhood restaurants, outstanding patisseries and traditional ateliers. Unless you know where they are however they all too easy to miss, chances are you’ll be swallowed up instead by the tourists who flock to the district’s famous gay bars and kosher restaurants.

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Richard describes the perfect three hours in Paris as exploring the Place des Vosges (the oldest square in the city, dating back to 1605); stopping for a coffee and a pastry at one of the best patisseries in town; visiting a chocolate shop where you can buy all the chocolate sculptures you could ever dream of; uncovering a secret garden where wild roses grow unchecked; soaking up impressive 16th and 17th century architecture and exploring former private mansions.

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Food lovers can look forward to Paris’s Bastille food market (the city’s biggest), gourmet food shops and the inside scoop on where to eat. Die-hard shoppers will feel lightheaded at the prospect of speciality shops, exclusive to Paris, where you can pick up organic cosmetics, stashes of handcrafted jewellery, piles of pashminas and Parisian couture. Culture vultures can sate themselves on Richard’s expert knowledge of the history behind the city’s streets, buildings and gardens.

As Richard puts it, “I’m here to fulfil peoples’ Paris fantasy” – everyone dreams about Paris and whether your version includes ateliers and authentic restaurants or palaces and patisseries, Richard’s goal is to find you exactly what you’ve been looking for.

For more information on Richard’s tours and to contact him please visit Eye Prefer Paris Tours.