W Hotel brings “non-traditional luxury” to Hong Kong

November 6, 2008

W Hotel, new kid on the Hong Kong hotel block, is injecting some serious style into West Kowloon. With its breed of non-traditional luxury it’s helping to rejuvenate and glam up this burgeoning area. The hotel opens into Elements mall, the city’s newest, and sits next to the ICC, which will be Hong Kong’s tallest building upon its completion in 2010.

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The hotel aims to create a nature-inspired oasis within Hong Kong’s urban jungle. Treelike columns rise up through the hotel lobby and bar, their branches twinkling with fairylights when darkness falls. The 393 guest rooms, designed by Australian firm g+a and Japanese firm Glamorous, are adorned with pretty butterfly motifs or a more masculine wood, fire, earth and metal theme. Even waiting for a lift on the guest floors will leave you feeling like Alice in Wonderland amid large bookshelves.

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W Hong Kong’s commercial waterfront location makes for some fantastic, if somewhat gritty, views. No kicking back and enjoying the light show from these rooms: W guests can soak-up refreshingly different vistas from the traditional harbourside hotels – think docks and cargo ships rather than luxury cruiseliners and yachts – that cleverly offset the whimsical design theme of the hotel’s interior.

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The hotel’s pool, with its views across the whole of the island, is the exception to this rule. When it is finished this will be one of the city’s hottest spots – Hong Kong’s highest pool (up on the 76th floor) with a cocktail bar and jacuzzi to boot. Just two floors below is Hong Kong’s new Bliss spa, fresh from New York – a haven of tension-fighting treatments such as the Ginger Rub and Triple Oxygen Facial.

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Another soon-to-be hotspot is Kitchen, one of the hotel’s two restaurants. The chef’s table is a nice touch; solo guests can mix and mingle with each other over dinner without the embarrassment of formal introductions or pre-arranged dinner dates. For more reticent guests, there’s always the distraction of the restaurant’s open kitchen at hand to provide food for thought or topics of conversation. Expect to pay around HKD 450 for three courses (excluding drinks).

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All W Hong Kong guests can rest easy knowing the brand’s signature Whatever/Whenever attitude applies – from the moment you arrive in the lobby to the time you check out you can have whatever you want, whenever you want it (so long as it’s legal apparently). Sounds good to us.

W Hong Kong:

1 Austin Road West, Kowloon Station, Hong Kong; Tel: +852 3717 2222; Fax: +852 3717 2888.

For directions and reservations call +852 2317 3303 or visit whotels.com/hongkong.


Aman opens doors to Beijing’s Summer Palace

October 14, 2008

Aman, the luxury hotel group, has opened its first Chinese property in one of the world’s most famous landmarks: Beijing’s Summer Palace.

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The Aman at Summer Palace, Beijing, offers its guests 5* lodging steps away from the East Gate of this UNESCO World Heritage Site and the stunning Kunming Lake. It is also just 15km from the Forbidden City.

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The hotel spreads across a series of historical buildings, gardens and courtyards. Some of the original rooms housed guests of the Empress Dowager Cixi, China’s de facto ruler from 1861 to 1908.

Rooms and suites reflect traditional Chinese architecture and use authentic layouts, materials and fabrics. The hotel is small; just 18 rooms and 25 suites decorated with Ming-style furniture.

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Guests can take advantage of the hotel’s bars and restaurants, plus its spa, fitness facilities, library and boutique.

Rates start from USD 480 per night.

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Photos courtesy of www.amanresorts.com


China’s Top Ten Hot Spring Resorts

October 9, 2008

By Stephan Larose for ChinaTravel.net

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China’s hot spring resorts are one of its best kept secrets. We’re talking hot springs in tropical caves, exfoliating fish therapy, Himalayan hot springs, and springs next to China’s best golf. So, if dipping in warm, mineral-rich waters by temples and beaches sounds good to you, read on for the lowdown on China’s top ten spas, with hotel and attraction info to boot. Enjoy!

1. Jiuhua Spa and Resort

(four stars, Tel: 010-6178-2288)

Formerly the private retreat of emperors, the Jiuhua Spa and Resort is one of the most popular hot spring spa destinations in the country, and it’s open to all. Limpid pools fed by springs 1,230 meters underground emerge at a tension-melting 40°C. Untainted by the sulfurous odor common to most hot springs, Jiuhua’s spring water has a slight yellowish tint, owing to micro-elements such as strontium, lithium, and metasilicic acid, earning it an emperor’s epithet as “a basin of Golden Water.”

Guests of this elegant four-star resort have a wealth of hot spring pools to choose from. The resort’s two sections comprise 40 pools offering 21 distinct therapeutic applications including mud baths, herbal baths, an Egyptian-themed pool, a foot massage pool, a lotus pool, and a medical stone sauna. Those with tired muscles after treks along the Great Wall, exploring the nearby Ming Tombs, or hiking in Python Mountain National Park next door will be rewarded with head-to-toe relaxation as well as therapeutic benefits for a host of ailments including rheumatic arthritis, sciatic nerve pain, lumbar muscle strain, eczema and hypertension.

The resort also features a host of recreational and therapeutic facilities. Hydrotherapy, salt baths, massage services, Thai spas and skin care treatments revitalize and rejuvenate while bowling alleys, bumper cars, swimming pools, satellite TV, archery and nearby attractions entertain and invigorate.

2. Crown Spa Resort Hainan

(five stars, Tel: 86-898-6596 6888, Email: sales@crownsparesorthainan.com)

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Hainan is the place in China for sun-worshippers looking to bronze their bodies, and just 15 minutes after exiting Haikou’s Meilan International Airport, you could be strolling along endless stretches of gorgeous private beach or taking a dip in what the Guiness Book of World Records describes as the “largest indoor hot spring in the world.”

Surrounded by lush Thai, Balinese and Caribbean gardens, the Crown Spa Resort Hainan (Hainan Huangguan Binhai Wenquan Jiudian) is a European-style leisure palace overlooking the South China Sea and boasting myriad exclusive spa and beauty treatments.

It’s hard work living it up, but after a day’s frolicking in the waves or taking advantage of this Haikou resort’s luxury yachts, jet skis, windsurfing, parasailing or nearby golf course, you’re bound to need some of the Crown’s propriety spa treatments. The luxurious, five-story Tea Tree Spa complex is fed by natural mineral hot springs and houses meditation decks, garden pavilions, massage rooms and treatment suites.

And you won’t want to miss the signature fish therapy—it’s the most organic exfoliation there is. Just sit back and close your eyes and let the fish stimulate your nerves and nibble the bacteria from your skin. If you can’t handle being kissed by fishes, there’s always the exercise pool, Jacuzzi hot tubs, steam rooms, Thai massage and aromatherapy to unwind with.

3. Zhongshan Hot Spring Resort

(four stars, Tel: 0760-668-3888, Email: zshsr@zshs.com)

Probably the best-known hot spring resort in China, the Zhongshan Hot Spring Resort has played host to China’s most revered heads of state, Jiang Zemin and Deng Xiaoping, and is situated near a town named after the founder of the modern Chinese nation — Sun Zhongshan, known in the West as Sun Yat Sen. This four-star resort features over 30 hot springs and is also handy to the best golf in the country. What better way to justify an extended dip in warm, mineral-rich waters than by spending the day putting for birdies at a par 71, Palmer-designed, 18-hole golf course or a Nicklaus-designed 18-hole course at par 72? Talk about living the good life!

Zhongshan’s mountains are dotted by numerous hot springs, one of which feeds the resort’s massive 30,000 square meter outdoor spa. Once done mollifying muscles, dissolving stress and achieving Zen-like inner peace, guests can zip over to the seaside resort city of Zhuhai, just a 15-minute drive away, to soak up some rays, or train their newfound Zen focusing skills on the resort’s shooting range.

4. Jinshan Hot Spring Holiday Resort

(five stars, Tel: 0750-728-1188)

Situated by Naji, Enping County, Guangdong, this sprawling holiday village taps an incredible 300 hot spring sources to bring you some of the most mineral rich water in China. Endowed with approximately 35 grams of healing micro-elements per liter, the waters here are renowned for therapeutic benefits that combat everything from rheumatism to skin diseases to cardiovascular afflictions.

Luxurious condominiums surrounded by green hills, flowers and elegant gardens guarantee that guests of this leafy oasis get some much-deserved respite from the hustle and bustle of daily life. The place is well suited for businesspeople conducting tense negotiations; the well-equipped international conference center ensures presentations go smoothly. The rewards are obvious, even if things don’t go as planned: Everyone wakes up fresh the next day after spending the evening hours luxuriating in this Jinshan resort’s 28 Japanese-style hot spring pools, which are divided into high, mid and cool temperatures.

5. Hailuogou Hot Spring (Conch Gully Hot Spring)

(Tel of Hailuogou Scenic Area Management Committee: 0836-326-6203) Hailuogou Changzheng Hotel (Tel: 0836-326-6608)

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Western Sichuan’s Gongga mountain is the scene for some of the hardiest, most majestic landscapes in China and include Hailuogou National Park, site of China’s biggest glacier park. Rivaling any North American glacier park in size, the area is renowned as a place where you can see all four seasons in the same day.

If you love rustic, outdoor springs, rugged mountain views and chances to catch snowflakes on your tongue while dipping in hot spring water, Hailuogou is the place for you. Mineral-rich, therapeutic spring waters gush out at toasty temperatures ranging from 50° to 92°C and are said to be effective in combating diabetes, neuralgia and arthritis. And that’s not to mention the obvious psychological benefits reaped by lounging in extreme comfort in a gorgeous setting.

After a day of hiking the verdant forests on the slopes of Mt. Gonggar, trekking across icy fields, listening to thunderous avalanches, skipping across the Conch Gully’s milky rivers, and dipping in the hot springs, the four-star Hailuogou Changzheng Hotel, with its dedications to the Long March and ethnic Tibetan décor, offers a little comfort, luxury and plenty of atmosphere in which to spend the remains of the day.

6. E’mei Lingxiu Hot Spring / Lingxiu Hot Spring

(Tel: 0833-559-2777)

Li Bai is one of China’s most celebrated poets, and when he took in Emei Shan’s (Mt. Emei) temple-studded peaks and mist-shrouded valleys, he found no shortage of inspiration for his superlative stanzas. Of all the mountains in the Shu kingdom, “Mount Emei stands above them all,” he wrote. A setting for scenes from the legendary Monkey King’s journey to the West, this magnificent landscape now serves as backdrop for bathers in Lingxiu Hot Spring’s pellucid pools.

Claims abound of the water’s therapeutic benefits. Sourced 3,000 meters underground, the springs are said to be helpful in combating diseases affecting digestive, neural, respiratory, vasomotor and cardiovascular systems. High concentrations of radon and huge volumes of water ensure that everyone gets in on the therapeutic action.

The five-star Emei Hot Spring Resort is ideally located to take advantage of this and the other hot springs in the area. You’ll need the fine dining and creature comforts because every day in this area is guaranteed to be a full one. Whether you decide to make the climb to Golden Peak Temple, or run the monkey-ruled trails to other historical and natural points of interest, there’ll be no shortage of opportunities to pump those thighs until they’re screaming for a little hot spring love.

7. Tibetan Dezong Hot Spring Resort

(Tel for Lhasa tourism bureau: 0891-634-2884)

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Want to lounge around in a warm, waterfall-fed pool at the roof of the world? Then look no further than the Tibetan Dezong Hot Spring Resort. Perched at a lofty 4,300 meters and nestled in the majestic slopes of the Himalayas, the Tibetan Dezong Hot Spring Resort offers visitors an experience that is simply incomparable. Is there anywhere else you can bathe in curative, calcite and tussilago-infused waters while gazing upon the most rugged, photogenic landscapes on the planet?

The Dezong Hot Springs are arranged in simple, rustic fashion, divided into a men’s pool, above, and a women’s pool, below. 40° C, jade-colored spring waters cascade 20 meters into the resort’s pools.

Once you’ve had enough (if there is such a thing), other worthy attractions are within reach (if you’re driving), such as the Zhigongi and Dezong Temples, and Tianzangtai, while Nam-tso Lake (Namu Lake in Tibetan); Potala Palace, Bakuo Street and Dazhao Temple are further off. Accommodations are somewhat limited, but the five-star Yaluzangbu hotel features creature comforts and cars for hire for the drive to the springs 170 kilometers away.

8. Tibetan Paillong Hot Spring

(Tel of Linzhi tourism bureau: 0894-582-2469)

About 40 kilometers down state highway 318 from the four-star Linzhi Fujian Hotel, Paillong Sulfur Hot Spring, near Pailong village, flows from the holy Brahmaputra river at a steamy 45-60 degrees centigrade. Extremely simple, and practically unknown, Paillong consists of just one small stone and brick pool. One of Tibet’s best kept secrets, you’re not likely to see crowds here.

The water issues directly into the pool from the rock, all you need do is let the water flow over your body and let the spring vapors clear your lungs and skin. Just sit and let your ego dissipate. Then, turn your gaze upon the verdant river valley below. Radiant organic energy illuminates your mind, revealing the universe in measureless fractals…. Dizzy yet? Do remember to breathe slowly as you slip into the infinite…

9. Jinping Mengla Hot Spring

(Tel of Gejiu Tourism Bureau: 0873-212-5699)

Yunnan’s jungle-covered karst towers jut out of tropical forests and stand like unearthly sentinels keeping watch over otherworldly landscapes. Awe-inspiring and oft photographed to be sure, Yunnan’s got something for hot springs lovers too: the Jinping Mengla Hot Spring.

Gushing forth from caves in southern Yunnan, 50-60 degree centigrade waters flush with curative elements stream over colorful rocks. Lying in the bubbling baths, visitors will find several “masseuse rocks.” Muscles are naturally kneaded as water flows provide movement and shallow pebble beds provide texture and traction.

Beauty abounds in these lush forests: You’ll find ravines, waterfalls, mirror-like lakes, karst landforms and jutting green mountains. The four-star Century Plaza Gejiu (0873-216-8888) is just seven kilometers from the hot spring.

10. Guangdong Conghua Hot Spring

(Tel: 020-8333-9933-2266)

Guangdong province’s Conghua Hot Spring Scenic Area was originally built in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. 75 kilometers from Guangzhou, it is now a nationally renowned tourist attraction and health resort. Warm water enriched with ten kinds of minerals bubbles to the surface at 12 different springs, ranging between 30 to 71°C.

A large area replete with historical landmarks such as the Bi Lang Bridge, Di Cui Pavilion and Tao Ran Hall, the springs are surrounded by waterfalls, slow-moving rivers, and tranquil forests. Try the Guangdong Hot Spring Hotel, a sprawling property comprising over 40 buildings set lakeside amidst pine forests with hot spring water piped into rooms. You’ll find everything from villas to presidential suites, along with squash courts, bowling alleys and a host of mountain trails to keep you busy when you’re not lounging in the springs.

Hainan Beach by fedfil via Flickr (Creative Commons).

Lake Nam-tso by poorfish via Flickr (Creative Commons)

SiChuan – Hailuogou by auws via Flickr (Creative Commons)


A Low-Key Getaway: Lopez Island, Washington, USA

September 30, 2008

By Ann Marie Svilar

Covering 29.5 square miles, Lopez Island, Washington is the first ferry stop in a cluster of islands called the San Juans, that rise from the Puget Sound and hug the Canadian border. Even during bustling tourist season Lopez Island will make you turn off the laptop and slow down. Wave to the blonde woman named Margie manning the ferry dock as you arrive. She will wave back. Waving is a tradition on this island; there is even a “Lopez wave” consisting of two fingers in a locked together peace sign.

As you make your first twists from the ferry dock, smell the dense trees and dried wild grass. Look for deer: there are many and they are domesticated enough to walk right up to you. Notice a Madrona tree with bark that looks like red peeling paper; scratch the trunk and it turns green. Look out for a Great Blue Heron, they are an elegant and common Lopez Island bird. You can find them almost anywhere in tidal lagoons along the seashore.

You’ll see that most people name their driveways after themselves or something original like Pterodactyl Lane, or Baroque ‘n Glass Lane. Mailboxes are painted with bald eagles and rich gardens are covered with tall fences to keep deer out. Some people live in make-shift buses, clusters of trailers, or in an A-Frame house. Stop by the Lopez Island Vineyards and pick up a bottle of Siegerrebe. Note that most streets don’t have yellow lines and traffic is minimal in any direction. Enjoy the quiet and keep going.

If you’re camping, Spencer Spit is the best place to stay. Located on the East side of the island, you can feel good karma there; the Spencer family sold the land to the state for much less than the private offers they received in order to make a state park that everyone could enjoy. Shirley (Spencer) Plummer is 87 years old, and recently became a great, great grandmother, she sits in her living room that overlooks Spencer Spit. It is a stretch of beach like no other, with driftwood, rocks and sand coming together into a single point that stares at Frost Island. The driftwood is easily made into forts. A muddy lagoon lines the spit to the North like a seam and smells as murky as it looks. Pitch your tent along the trees at the mouth of the spit; light a fire; cook some s’mores.

If you like beautiful beaches and down to earth people, you will love Lopez Island. It is a getaway in the simplest sense. Below are 7 things you should do whilst visiting the island.

Iceberg Point – Just past Agate Beach there is a small place to park and then walk into what looks like private residence. When you hit the tree line, turn right down a dirt path; walk through a gate and onto a maintained trail. After less than a mile the trees will open up to the most vast part of the Island; the unprotected South side. Your landscape will be big hills and rocks with tall grass that smells like dry summers. Your view will be of an ocean that seems to go on forever until you see the Olympic Peninsula and Olympic Mountains far in the distance.

Sharks Reef – My favourite spot on the island is Sharks Reef. The water here is treacherous because of undertow and sometimes you will see kayakers twirling and paddling their way through the narrow corridor that separates Lopez Island from San Juan Island. Large pieces of sea kelp that look like women with mermaid hair line the rocks. Here is where you see some of the best tide pools on the Island full of lipids’ and sea anemones.

Saturday Farmers Market – Farmers Markets are special no matter where you go. Lopez market’s charm lies in its small size. My favourite stall is Marianna’s clothing, made of scraps of recycled cloth. She also has a store in the main part of town called Okeydo. Also visit my parent’s booth at the market where they sell my brother’s photos every Saturday. Introduce yourself!

Horse Drawn Farms – This eco-friendly farm used to use horses to farm the land, but now they use oxen. Produce is pre-picked and you can just drive up, make your selection and leave money based on the honour system. It’s as simple and trusting as that.

Community Center – The centre hosts music and community theatre all year long. While you are there, walk North-east to the skate park where young kids are dropping into small half pipes.

The Bay Café – The Bay Café has the most expensive food on the island, averaging at around $20 a plate. But it also offers the most brilliant place to have dinner and watch the sunset as it lies down for the night behind Friday Harbour. The restaurant is run by two local men, with a lot of energy, who know how to bake an amazing cedar salmon. You’ll also be guaranteed great hospitality.

Lopez Island Kayaks – Being on an island is amazing enough, getting the chance to see it up close from the water is special too. Rent a kayak, get some advice on routes and get close to the water. If you time your float trip between April and October you may see big rusty-red Lion’s mane jellyfish as they make their way towards the beach at low tide.

TRAVELLER’S CHECK LIST

Getting there:

By ferry… Travel from Anacortes on the mainland to Lopez Island. The journey is approximately 85 miles and takes about 45 minutes. For pricing info and to buy tickets click here. On the ferry keep your eyes peeled for bald eagles, seals, otters and the occasional orca whale.

By plane… Kenmore Air fly direct from Seattle to Lopez Island daily. For more information on schedules, pricing and booking click here. The journey takes about 1hr 10 mins.

Where to stay:

  1. Lopez Islander Resort; PO Box 459, Lopez Island, WA; desk@lopezislander.com
  2. MacKaye Harbor Inn; 949 MacKaye Harbor Road Lopez Island, WA 98261; (888) 314-6140; innkeeper@mackayeharborinn.com. From USD 135 per night.
  3. Edenwild; 1-800-606-0662; edenwild@rockisland.com. From USD 170 per night.
  4. Lopez Lodge; Lopez Lodge, Lopez Island, WA 98261; (360) 468-2816; needle@rockisland.com. From USD 70 per night.

For information on camping on Lopez Island, click here

Where to eat:

  1. Bay Café – about $30 a person. 9 Old Post Road Suite C, PO Box 692, Lopez, WA 98261; Tel: 360.468.3700
  2. Love Dog Café – $10-$15 per person. 1 Village Center, PO Box 633, Lopez Island, WA 98261; Tel: 360.468.2150.
  3. HollyB’s Bakery – $5 or less. Lopez Plz, Lopez Island, WA 98261; Tel: 360.468.2133.
  4. Vortex – $10 per person for wraps and smoothies. Homestead Bldg C, Lopez Island, WA, 98261; Tel: 360.468.4740.
  5. Isabel’s Espresso – $5 or less for espresso drinks. 308 Lopez Rd, Lopez Island, WA, 98261; Tel: 360.468.4114

What to see:

For general information about visit the Lopez Island visitors bureau online here

  1. Iceburg Point and Sharks Reef: click here for a map of Lopez.
  2. Saturday Farmer’s Market: Community Center.
  3. Lopez Island Kayak: located at Marinas on Fisherman’s Bay 360-468-2847
  4. Horse Drawn Farms: 2823 Port Stanley Road

Events:

  1. Fourth of July on Lopez: fun run, parade, salmon bbq and fireworks
  2. Tour de Lopez (bike tour): last Saturday of April
  3. Lopez Farmer’s Market: May to Sept.
  4. Artist’s Studio Tour: last weekend in August

For more information on Lopez Island events click here

All photographs ©David Svilar.


Shot of the Day: Antigua, Guatemala

September 29, 2008

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Volcano and Arch by David A G Wilson has given us itchy feet today.

If you’re lucky enough to have a trip to Antigua in the pipeline you should check out the stunning Casa Encantada boutique hotel, which is right in the centre of this 16th century colonial town (and UNESCO World Heritage Site). Bag the rooftop suite for USD 195 per night and enjoy views across to the Agua volcano (pictured above). Caramba!


Karsts and rafts in Yangshuo, China

September 26, 2008

Top 10 Tips for a weekend break in Yangshuo, China – from how to avoid a hot air balloon crash to rafting the Yulong River.

Even at 500 metres in a faulty hot air balloon Yangshuo is a breathtaking place. At that nail-biting height the region’s famous limestone karsts look even more dramatic; their pointed peaks rising up from flat, green rice fields that spread out from the Li and Yulong rivers.

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The town of Yangshuo was until recently a sleepy provincial village. Now it’s a bustling tourist hub that has seen phenomenal expansion. Visitors are drawn to the town by the busload, eager to soak up its stunning views and raft down rivers made famous through centuries of Chinese paintings and, more recently, scenes from The Painted Veil.

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Parts of Yangshuo can feel a bit like a Chinese Disneyland, especially around West Street. If you’re prepared to go off-the-beaten track, and to spend just ¥100 a day on using a local guide, it’s easy to experience a Yangshuo that’s as far away from package tourism and flag-following lemmings as you can imagine.

TIP 1: The lovely Lilly

We used Lilly Lu for the two days that we were there. She speaks excellent English and can arrange everything from a hot air balloon rescue mission to airport transfers to lightshow tickets to unspoiled stretches of river to simple, but utterly delicious, local dining. Lilly has lived in Yangshuo and its nearby villages all her life. She’s an expert on what to do and can guide you to places that package tourists can only dream of. For Lilly’s contact details and more info on her tour and services, please leave us a comment with your email address at the bottom of this post.

TIP 2: Cycle far, far away

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Get those legs pumping and be prepared to spend at least 2.5 – 3 hours in the saddle. Don’t fret: it’s flat and easy cycling along river banks and through stunning fields and tiny villages. Bike all the way up to the 400-year old Yulong Bridge and then have lunch. If you’re with Lilly she’ll show you where to go, but if you’re heading up alone make sure you go to the first restaurant downstream from the bridge. The food is fantastic – lots of fresh vegetables stir-fried with garlic, the delicious local specialty “beer fish” and local chicken dishes as well. Note: this is not for the squeamish… if you order fish or chicken you’ll see the cooks fetching live catfish from the river or live chickens from a hutch that they polish off in the kitchen and then gut. It’s really not that bad, and the end result is well worth any misgivings you might have about ending an innocent life!

TIP 3: When it comes to the rivers, don’t follow the crowds

The river trips in Yangshuo are one of the big highlights. At the weekend, especially if it’s a public holiday, hundreds of people flock to the water to ride on bamboo rafts and squirt each other with enormous water pistols. If throngs of over excited water rats don’t spell tranquility in your book, make sure you make the effort get away from the crowds.

For the Yulong River – bamboo rafts punted by boatmen – spend 3 hours in the saddle biking up to Yulong Bridge and escape the crowds. You’ll be rewarded with a 2 hour trip downstream in complete quiet and isolation as it only gets busy for the last 10 minutes (and there it’s phenomenonally busy). For the Li River – motorized bamboo rafts – hire a car for the day (only ¥300 – ¥550) and drive to XingPing Town. From there head upstream and you’ll be on more or less your own.

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TIP 4: Get up early

Set your alarm for 6am and head to Moon Hill. This karst peak has a hole straight through it that makes for some seriously impressive photographs.

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You can hike to the top of the peak up a concrete staircase. The steps are pretty steep and it can be hard going unless you’re a regular gym bunny. During the summer months the weather gets sticky at about 9am so it’s well worth rising early to beat the heat. Getting there before breakfast also means you’ll have Moon Hill entirely to yourself; we did and it was amazing.

Once you’re at the top you can scramble up a dirt track right to the top of the hole. The guides tell you to allow 1.5 hours for a round-trip. If you’re fit it’ll take more like 45 minutes.

TIP 5: Breakfast late

The tourist groups tend to leave Yangshuo after breakfast to go sightseeing. If you’re prepared to stick around you can wander the town’s pretty streets in relative peace. We headed in for breakfast at around 9:30 / 10am and everyone had left. After breakfast at Café Mimosa (16 Gui Hua Road) we spent a relaxed hour exploring old streets that are normally swarming with crowds.

TIP 6: Stay out of town

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Daily bicycle rents are cheap (from ¥5 – ¥20 per day), as are taxis (from about ¥30 per trip), so it’s easy to travel in from a hotel that’s slightly out of town.

We stayed at the Li River Retreat, which was about a 10 minute bike ride from the centre of Yangshuo. The hotel has stunning, un-obscured views from its terraces and balconies. Almost all the rooms have private balconies and they’re clean and very reasonably priced (from ¥250 – ¥490 per night). Staff are friendly and can speak English. The Yangshuo Mountain Retreat also gets good reviews from friends who have stayed there (from HK$229 – HK$800 per night).

If you’re prepared to stay further outside Yangshuo, the new Hotel of Modern Art gets fantastic write ups (from ¥2080 per night). It’s the only hotel in China that’s a member of the prestigious Relais and Chateaux alliance.

TIP 7: Don’t hot air balloon unless you’re very brave

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We had a bad experience. At 500m our pilot laughingly announced that we had a small problem. Pointing inside the balloon he told us to look up at the hole that had appeared in the silk. We didn’t think it was so funny and spent the 30 minutes it took for us to land in palpations of worry. Added to this terror was my

crippling fear of heights: I should never have got into that basket…

Other friends tell of a white-knuckle ride that involved crash landing in the trees on the side of a steep karst.

Although everyone in Yangshuo does their best to convince you that the balloon pilots are highly experienced, that it’s not dangerous and that there have never been any accidents don’t believe them. Hot air ballooning is by far and away the most expensive activity you can do in Yangshuo (¥700 – ¥900 per person for 70 minutes) and the local operators want your business.

TIP 8: Check out Fuli

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This small town is home to families of fan makers. For centuries Fuli’s inhabitants have painted fans and scrolls depicting traditional scenes. They used to make fans for the queen of one of the Chinese dynasties.

If you want to buy scrolls or fans whilst you’re in Yangshuo it’s worth hiring a car and visiting Fuli as they’re about a third of the price and of a much higher quality than the ones selling in Yangshuo’s markets. Expect to pay about ¥200 for a big silk fan.

TIP 9: If you’re going for the weekend forget about Guilin

The boat trip down the Li River from Guilin to Yangshuo takes about six hours and you have to pack onto a big cruiser. If you’re only visiting for the weekend it makes far more sense to arrange for a car to pick you up from Guilin airport and drive you straight to Yangshuo that night. The stretches of river around Yangshuo are quieter and you can travel them on a traditional bamboo raft away from hordes of snap-happy tourists.

Guilin is also a city with 1.32 million inhabitants – it’s not the quaint town some brochures depict. If you’re in search of peace and quiet ditch the city and head straight for Yangshuo. Hotels can organise a car from the airport (¥380 one way, travel time 2 hours) as can Lilly.

TIP 10: Don’t go in a guided group to the light show

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It’s not as complicated as people have you believe. If your hotel or guide organizes the tickets for you then arrange a driver and go on your own. You’ll save being herded about like cattle and will be able to escape the crowds and mayhem much more quickly. Tickets to the light show cost ¥180 per person.

All photos © Emma Torry / Bryony Greenwell


Good news for book worms

September 25, 2008

If you’re the type of traveller who packs more books than clothes into your suitcase, or if you like the thrill of vicarious travel then we’ve got some good news for you…

Amazon is launching a new service called Amazon Prime, which offers Amazon members FREE two-day shipping for one month on thousands of items.

If you cancel your subscription before your trial month is up then you can enjoy fast delivery without any annoying catches. You’ll just have to remember to set a reminder for yourself so you don’t get stung! Click here for details.

We’ll be signing up and have been looking for literary inspiration to get us going. So far we’ve got the following travel books on our list:

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92 Acharnon Street by John Lucas: Written by a former poetry editor of New Statesman, 92 Acharnon Street won the The Dolman Best Travel Book Award 2008.

James Owen, reviewing 92 Acharnon Street on its publication for Telegraph Travel, said: “This is a portrait of Greece as it certainly was in the mid-1980s, and often still is now – noisy, dirty and on strike, in thrall to bureaucracy and political favouritism, a dark pall cast by the military dictatorship of the 1970s.

“Yet through it shines the redeeming generosity of the Greek temperament, one that approves with a wry smile the necessity of students cheating in exams because the teaching is so inadequate.”

The book is “the finest account of a love affair with Greece since Peter Levi’s The Hill of Kronos”.

Time Out Guide to Florence and Tuscany: As recommended by Harriet, one of iloho’s users, in her post about Tuscany, we want to check out the Time Out guide to Florence and Tuscany

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Harriet says: “Take the Time Out guide if eating and drinking is one of your holiday priorities. I’ve used a lot of guidebooks in my time, and found that Time Out consistently has the best, most up-to-date restaurant listings. The places it recommends have always been excellent value for money and packed with locals. For sightseeing and history, I think the Footprint Travel Guides are really well written, but Footprint doesn’t cover as many destinations as the Rough Guide or Lonely Planet.”

Eat, Pray, Love by Elizabeth Gilbert: Having gone through a contentious divorce, a dodgy rebound romance and suffered with depression, Elizabeth Gilbert decided at the age of 34 to spend a year travelling through Italy, India and Indonesia. She says: “I wanted to explore one aspect of myself set against the backdrop of each country, in a place that has traditionally done that one thing very well,” she writes. “I wanted to explore the art of pleasure in Italy, the art of devotion in India and, in Indonesia, the art of balancing the two.”

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The New York Times says: “If a more likable writer than Gilbert is currently in print, I haven’t found him or her.”

Celebrity fans of Eat, Pray, Love include Julia Roberts, Elle Macpherson, Sophie Dahl and Meg Ryan. We’re keen to try it for ourselves.


How To… Tip Around the World

September 23, 2008

By Nora Dunn

Whilst visiting Tokyo, you slip your taxi driver a small tip for taking you to your destination so promptly and courteously. Little did you know you just offended him beyond reproach. Or you get out of the cab in Mexico, only to find that you must have either over-tipped your driver or have entered the twilight zone because the serenade you are getting now seems a little over the top considering all you did was toss in the equivalent of an extra dollar or two. Or you walk out of a bar in Canada, wondering why the bartender ignored you for 10 minutes when you went to order your third drink – without tipping for any of them.

As with so many cultural idiosyncrasies around the world, tipping is a prevalent and ever-changing custom that differs as much with each country as the language or topography does. In North America, tipping is common, and in many cases downright expected. Servers and bartenders for example, often earn less than the minimum hourly wage, because it is expected that they will also earn tips that amount to 15%-20% of their customers’ bills. In other countries like Australia, tips are lovely but not expected; and the servers and bartenders are paid an hourly wage to reflect this.

So while abroad, who do you tip and how much? Here is a small collection of tipping practices around the world you can use as a guide.

NORTH AMERICA

Arguably, North American culture dictates more tipping than anywhere else in the world. Make sure you have some extra cash handy!

Canada

  • Restaurants and Bars: 15% (Hint: If you’re at a bar, tip the bartender well on the first drink you order. You’ll get great service for the rest of the night, and if you tip really well on the first drink you aren’t necessarily expected to keep tipping on every drink thereafter. If you wait until the end of the night you may be the victim of bad service.)
  • Taxi drivers: No set formula. Usually just round up the fare a few dollars.
  • Spas: 10-15%
  • Food delivery: $2-5, depending on the weather
  • Coat Check: $1 per coat
  • Hotel bellhop: $5-10
  • Hotel chambermaids: $2-5/day

USA

  • Restaurants: 18-20%
  • Bars: 15%
  • Taxi: 10-15% of fare
  • Spas: 15%
  • Food delivery: $2-5, depending on the weather
  • Coat Check: $1 per coat
  • Hotel bellhop: $5-10
  • Hotel chambermaids: $2-5/day

ASIA

In many parts of Asia in general, tips are welcome but ones that are extravagant can be seen as an insult.

Singapore

  • Restaurants & Bars: Generally no tips are required. Upscale dining will auto-gratuity 10%.
  • Taxis: No tipping required
  • Spas: $2-4 Singapore dollars (hand it directly to the staff who served you). This applies to shampoo person and manicurist, but strangely the hair stylist rarely gets tipped.
  • Hotel service staff: $2S, however often you will see “no tipping required” signs so you can use your judgement depending on the quality of hotel you are staying at.

Hong Kong As above.

China Tipping policies are non-existent. Foreigners are generally charged more to begin with.

Japan Don’t.

LATIN AMERICA

Mexico Do! Tips are expected by pretty much everybody who services you in any way.

  • Restaurants & Bars: 15%
  • Taxis: Tipping is not necessary. Usually you have negotiated a flat fare that encompasses the tip.
  • Spas: 10%

Brazil

  • Restaurants & Bars: Look for the 10% service charge on the bill. If it’s not there, then tip 10%.
  • Taxis: No tipping required, but it’s always nice to round up a bit if you can.
  • Spa: 10%-15%
  • Hotels: The service charge is usually included in the bill.
  • Chambermaids: Only tip at luxury hotels: $1-$2

EUROPE

Germany

Germans are not big tippers in general, but tips are still welcome and, in some cases, expected.

Note: Look for the words “Trinkgeld Inbegriffen” on your bill… If you see them, it means that the service charge has been included already. No need to leave any extra!

  • Restaurants & Bars: 10%
  • Taxis: 10%
  • Spas: €1-€2 will do for a hair stylist, and €1 for the shampoo technician. Tipping on other spa services depends on the cost and nature of the service; 10% is usually a safe bet.
  • Hotel chambermaid: Only tip if you are happy with the service, and leave it in the room when you leave.
  • Hotel bellhops: €2-€3

Switzerland Pretty much across the board, 15% tips are included in the bills. As in Germany, keep your eyes peeled for the words “Trinkgeld Inbegriffen” to make sure. If the service was outstanding and you want to tip more, then you can give up to 10% extra. Also if you plan to become a regular, this is a great idea!

France

  • Restaurants & Bars: A service charge of 15% is usually included in the bill. You’ll know if the words “servis compris” appear.
  • Taxis: Drivers don’t require or expect tips.
  • Spas: Look for the service charge to be included in the bill. If it’s not, then 10%-15% will do, and only if you are happy with the service.

Italy

  • Restaurants & Bars: Tips are not expected. There are often cover charges or bread charges, which take the place of general tipping practices. If you really wish you can leave a small amount at the table.

Again, and as with so many European destinations, a service charge may be included. “Servizio compreso” will be your hint.

United Kingdom

  • Restaurants: Tipping is not necessarily expected, but is very welcome. 10%-15% will do. Unlike many other European destinations, service charges are rarely included in the bill.
  • Bars: Don’t tip in cash. You can offer to buy the bartender a drink if you’re happy with the service. They’ll then add the price of half a pint on to your tab (sometimes they’ll pour the drink for themselves, but most times they’ll just keep the cash).
  • Taxis: 10%

DOWN UNDER

Australia Tipping in Australia is almost non-existent. Generally speaking if you are happy with the service, nobody will say no or be offended that you want to give them money. They’re just not expecting tips – at least not from the locals!

  • Restaurants & Bars: If you thought the service was great, you can tip up to 10%.

New Zealand No tips are required. Service charges are almost always included in the bill.

MISCELLANEOUS

Egypt Tips in Egypt are most certainly expected, but the amount is at your discretion. When in doubt, tip like you do at home.

Russia Restaurants & Bars: 10% Taxis: 5%-10%

This is by no means a comprehensive guide to tipping around the world. Within each country practices can vary, much less within each geographical region. So how can you best be sure you are following customs and not offending anybody by being stingy, while not getting pinned as a naïve tourist by over-tipping? Ask! Most people will be quite honest with you about standard tipping practices. And if you’re embarrassed about asking your potential tippee what to do, then ask at an information desk at the airport or your hotel.

Happy tipping!

Extra Tipping Resources:

Political Calculations This site includes a chart of all the countries mentioned above and more with general guidelines for tipping and cultural practices.

International Business Etiquette Internet Sourcebook Here you will find links to sites for business etiquette tips around the world – a very useful tool, even if you aren’t travelling for business.

Best Trip Choices A great resource for trip planning, from weather to ATM locations to travel insurance and more.


10 Minutes with Randy Petersen

September 23, 2008

The world’s most influential frequent flyer gives iloho the low-down on the golden rules of airline reward programmes, how to survive a long-haul flight in economy and the best way to bag an upgrade.

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Air miles used to equal free tickets, but in recent months Delta, American Airlines and US Airways have all started imposing extra booking costs upon frequent flyers looking to redeem their miles for tickets. Is joining an airline loyalty programme really worth it anymore?

This is a difficult question to answer because most of the members of these programs view these changes with a lot of emotion. While the industry has certainly added booking costs to frequent flyer awards, I sincerely doubt it means the end of the industry. In reality, without some of these extra fees at this point in time, it may mean the end of the airline and I don’t think anyone really wants to see that happen. In the past 18 months we have seen 8 airlines go out of business, 7 of them had frequent flyer programs and in all situations, all members of these 7 programs lost all their miles and all their awards. So, perhaps the industry doesn’t need to look for revenue sources to get through the unexpected run up in oil, but the facts seem to indicate the alternative doesn’t do anyone any good. And really, members still have choices. Not all programs have instituted these fees so if you don’t like them, you can move your business to another program.

Are frequent flyer programs worth it? Well, the number of new enrollments seems to indicate that the programs are still growing. And as for the worth for existing members? Worldwide, the industry gave away nearly 50 million free tickets last year – so someone is still reaping the benefits if not you.

Amid rising oil prices, can we expect to see airlines hiking up the number of miles loyalty members need to redeem tickets?

Unfortunately I am the bearer of bad news. While we have seen an unprecedented increase in various award charts over the past 5 years (at least two major increases), the basic first level flight awards have not changed, although they are more difficult to get and redeem. If, and this is a big IF, oil prices can settle down to near US$100 a barrel or below, I think the worst has passed. Now, if oil continues to see-saw and rise, then unfortunately I do see another round of increases, perhaps drastic enough to effect the long heralded 25,000-mile level. As for the real bad news – even when oil retreats I don’t see mileage levels falling. I see fees disappearing, but the current award charts are likely here to stay.

Do you expect to see people trading in their co-branded airline credit cards for co-branded hotel ones, e.g. Starwood’s American Express card, so that they can redeem awards without any hidden catches?

Probably not. The mention of the Starwood American Express credit card is just such an example. While widely noted as one of the best, if not the best, credit card for the frequent flyer, it still has quite a small membership base compared to the really big airline programs. Unfortunately the value of that card, which I strongly think will be highly increased soon, is known mostly among the “insiders,” like the travelers reading this answer. Most members of a loyalty program do not know enough to compare and change either their programs or their credit card choices.

I must point out that the credit card wars will soon be on us when the credit crisis extends around the world, which will mean fewer increases in spending limits for card holders and even some cancelled cards for missing payments vs. grace periods in the past.

While credit cards remain the #1 way to earn miles without flying anywhere in the world, the decision process for most frequent flyers in choosing the best card for them remains relatively unresearched.

What are your top tips for surviving a long-haul flight in economy class?

There are a few things I concentrate on for long haul in economy and I’m pretty familiar with it. Exercise, hibernation and comfort. Now, before I offer any tips, understand that long ago this became the manner in which I went to work. For some readers, that will not apply. For instance, is this your first time to an international destination? No matter what I say, you’ll be too excited to get where you are going, much as I was years ago. But alas now, for me, it’s similar to catching a cab. But that doesn’t mean that travel is boring, it just means I’ve gone from the excitement of the journey to the destination!

So, first of all, I don’t do exercises during the flight as is often suggested. I’m sure that is valuable for some, but for me, I do all my exercise before the flight. Days before, I get in some extra basketball, extra miles on the mountain bike or just a really, really long walk. Once on board, I consider it similar to a night’s rest and don’t typically get up in the middle of the night to walk the hallway stretching. Might be good for some, but for me, it’s all about hibernation. I don’t want to talk, walk or watch, I just want to close my eyes and wake up somewhere else.

So, how to I get to this premature dream stage? Comfortable surroundings. I always, and I mean always only wear Nike when flying. The DryFit stuff works for me to stay very comfortable no matter what the cabin temps are. All stretch fabric – no belts, no jeans, no cotton shirts, just plain athletic wear. Next rule, clean socks and no shoes when flying anywhere. As soon as I see the airport outside the window start to move, the shoes are off. And over the years I have gained new admiration for small pillows. Beg, borrow or buy, but a small pillow goes a long way to getting comfortable. And, no matter what I’ve said in the past, those who carry around those neck pillows are not sissies. Those pillows are the perfect thing for long haul in economy.

And I don’t eat. I call it my airline diet, but hibernation means just that, hibernation. So I go right to my comfort zone at take-off and hope that the flight attendants remember to tuck a landing card somewhere on me, while I’m preparing for landing.

And finally, though it ranks near the start, I will have downed a healthy bottle of water before I get comfortable and that’s about all there is for me to survive 6-16 hours in economy.

What do you make of the news that Emirates is going to provide showers on board its new A380s? Now they’ve upped the ante, what more in-flight innovations can we expect?

Good question because these types of innovations are the same type of progress we saw when Virgin Atlantic Airways and Richard Branson began – moving the experience of the passenger forward. Massages in Upper Class? This all starts with marketing and money. I think much of these types of innovations are driven by the aircraft size, certainly we do not see such innovations as showers in smaller regional jets. As well, Emirateshas a bit of an advantage in the funding of things like this, and of course they are the aggressive one, trying to wrestle market share from others.

There have been other innovations such as women’s-only bathrooms on aircraft and suites like in the Singapore Airlines A-300. Frankly I’m still waiting for the day when all airlines around the world will have moved to 180 degree, completely flat bed business class seats. In-flight innovations will move forward the most when we finally get HD-quality video on board. In the premium cabins, screen size has increased dramatically with some carriers, but the quality still lacks and that will likely be the next threshold for passengers.

Internet is also coming, but it can’t compete on the long haul the same way that movies and other entertainment does. I mean, do I really want to spend 10 hours catching up on email? Nice idea, but impractical for most. But, the industry does not lack imagination, only the funds, and given the current state of the overall industry, it looks like we’ll be waiting a bit longer for the future to fly us forward.

Do you offset your carbon emissions and, if so, how?

Actually I don’t. While I do believe that the human footprint is leaving a trace on the global climate, I just don’t know enough about this carbon footprint thing and am not usually one for rushing to something like this without actually studying it. I’m aware of the “trendy” intent and good of this concept, but again, I want to make such a decision for myself and not because others have made it for me.

I’m sure that over the next year I’ll have examined enough information to determine of this initiative is right for me, but in the meanwhile, I am aware of my role in this planet’s future.

What are the 3 things that you’ll never travel without?

  1. iPod. There is little doubt that at some point I will have to, or want to, ignore the sound of passengers or the airport around me. Music of all sorts makes them all go away.
  2. Books. There are few things in life and travel that relaxes me more than the written word and it would be rare for you to find me anywhere in the world without a few books and a few magazines.
  3. A sense of humor. Whether laughing at myself (why did I not realize that seat D on this flight was not an aisle but rather a middle seat?) or laughing at the humor of others (I’m not laughing at you, I’m laughing with you!), nothing grounds me more in life than to hear my and others sound of laughter.

Do you have any golden rules when it comes to mileage programmes – e.g. ways to accumulate points, programmes everyone should sign up for?

I like this question since it is usually the one that most members of loyalty programs don’t ask themselves until it’s too late. Over the years, I’ve found that these basic rules and effective tactics will get you to think about your approach to these programs and will allow you to have a plan. Remember, it’s all in the details:

1. Prioritize Your Goals: When was the last time you thought about what it is that you want from your frequent flyer scheme? With certain awards becoming overpriced for the infrequent flyer, it might be time to switch schemes. Both the British Midland and Lufthansa programs offer an assortment of low mileage awards. And, Lufthansaand SAS sponsor auctions that allow you to redeem your miles for such things as a dream vacation to the South Pacific with air and deluxe hotel, that is, if you can’t get the free seat you wanted. Before your membership can pay you large dividends you must first prioritize what it is you want. And then there is Virgin Blue from Australia which is coming at all this from a much different point-of-view for awards. Merchandise? Upgrades? Hawaii? All have different programs which would be best for you, so do yourself a favor and start by choosing what you want from a program.

2. Turn Award Redemption into a Plan: Since even your neighbors now belong to frequent flyer schemes, you must have a plan when considering using an award to a popular destination. The best plan is to know which days offer the best award travel opportunities – Best Days: Europe (Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday), Asia (Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday), To Florida (Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday), Hawaii (Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday), Caribbean (Tuesday, Wednesday), Mexico (Tuesday, Wednesday), South America (Tuesday, Wednesday), Within the U.S. (Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday); Worst Days: Europe (Friday, Saturday, Sunday), Asia (Friday, Saturday, Sunday), To Florida (Friday, Sunday), Hawaii (Friday, Saturday, Sunday, Monday), Caribbean (Saturday, Sunday, Monday), Mexico (Friday, Saturday, Sunday), South America (Friday, Saturday, Sunday), Within the U.S. (Friday, Sunday). But free flights aren’t always the answer, check out the various other award offers the programmes have in store for members.

3. Set Realistic Deadlines: Most major airlines have miles that expire. Most customers wait too long to use these types of miles and run the risk of not being able to use them (no free seats available before they expire). Set up a calendar of what miles and awards you have earned and when they expire, never let miles go into the last three months that they are valid, you run the risk of changing plans and losing free travel.

4. Reward Yourself Frequently: Originally frequent flyer schemes were viewed as “Travel Savers,” awards you could save for a rainy day. These days with expiring miles and an ever increasing problem with award redemption, it might be wise to re-evaluate how you use your awards. Consider rewarding yourself often and keeping just enough miles to use as upgrades on your next paid vacation flight. With proper planning, it’s a better idea to purchase that ticket to France this summer and use those miles you have for weekend getaways.

5. Find A Scheme That Fits Your Travel Style: Merely joining a frequent traveler scheme doesn’t guarantee you a free trip; choosing the right one does. Many travelers simply join the first scheme that sticks an enrollment form in their hands, and then take years to earn anything of value. Then there are those travelers who boast about having miles in many different schemes. That’s fine if you have a plan and have prepared properly for those times when you were bumped off a flight or a hotel or car rental was sold out. But having miles in too many schemes can become a problem. The primary rule for any frequent traveler is to concentrate on a single scheme (but always be prepared to switch allegiance temporarily for the right promotion). This doesn’t mean you won’t belong to other schemes, but with many airlines “dating” their miles, you may find your scattered efforts have quietly expired. Except with a few airlines, you can no longer count on your miles being there until you want to use them. Getting the most from your frequent traveler schemes works best if you go out of your way to fly on a particular airline, stay at a particular hotel, or rent from a partner car rental company.

6. Find An Effective Solution For Earning More Miles: Most people do not realize that 30% – 60% of their total miles and points can come from scheme partners. Every time you travel and use a partner airline, hotel, or car rental company, you increase your chances of earning an award. But these days, miles come from sources far beyond the typical. For a partner example, on a flight from London to Madrid, you will earn apx. 1,600 miles (roundtrip) depending on your airline scheme. An affiliated hotel partner can add 500 bonus miles to that total, and a partner car rental can add another 250 bonus miles and of course that 400 Euro ticket on the credit card brings this total of non-flight miles to more than 70% of the flying miles. Using this method, you can simultaneously earn miles and points toward numerous separate awards during a single trip. These tie-ins aren’t limited to hotels and car rentals, but include affinity credit cards, telephone service, referrals, and more. When investigating scheme partners, look for those that allow points and miles to be earned without a flight or stay in conjunction. That way, even a casual stay at your local hotel for a special celebration will help you accumulate the miles and points necessary for your chosen awards. Another hotly debated topic is “double-dipping,” the practice of choosing a hotel partner of an airline that allows you to choose airline and hotel bonuses (think Hilton HHonors) was well as car rental in just one stay, rather than having to choose between airline and hotel points. Obviously, the scheme that doesn’t limit your choice will allow you to earn more credits toward free awards. For the infrequent flyer, or flyer who doesn’t fly often at a full fare, then you might look to finding out the best value of your expenses that could only be earning from spending on your credit card.

The secret to frequent flyer schemes is to make each action you take earn you miles, for those that pay attention to the details, the next trip is free.

Cashing in air miles for air tickets can be a tricky business, especially now that there are more and more cancelled and crowded flights. More often than not your preferred date is not available or you have to wait weeks for your ticket to be confirmed. Do you have any advice on how to avoid these pitfalls?

As in life, timing can be everything. There are a couple of things that can help you get the award you want — traveling mid-week (Tuesday-Thursday) can increase your chances about 30% to get an award. Most want to depart for weekend travel and that’s the bottleneck. Also, keep in mind that “NO” is really just the starting point, not the end of your award request.

When you hear “no”, you need to talk to a person in the award reservations desk to find out where the problem is. Usually with the hub-and-spoke system, the entire flight is not blacked out for you but rather a segment, and by chatting with someone, you can find out where the bottleneck is and then try to work around it with another routing or partner. This can add another 25% success to your award request.

And finally, roughly 20% of all awards booked are changed at some point in time, either cancelled (kids sick, or work came up, or something else) or changed to other dates, so try and take advantage of this phenomena by planning early enough so when nothing seems available you have time to call back at least twice a week to see if the award inventory has changed.

We’ve got to ask… What are your top tips for bagging an upgrade on a long-haul flight?

There’s really only one and it’s not about dressing nice, carrying flowers or complimenting the check-in desk staff. It’s all about research. Using tools to know which relative routing historically and in real-time routing has the best chances for an upgrade. Knowing partner availability also helps. For me, I fully understand that upgrades are all about what is available and I’ll often spend no more that 15-20 minutes looking at various routings toward my destination to determine which of 2-4 different ways offers the best chances for an upgrade. I study aircraft type (some have more upgrade seats to begin with than others), I study the airline (with various partners I know my miles and my choices offer many different choices, either to use my miles or to earn more miles) and I study the timing of my flight, such as, could I leave a day earlier to qualify for an upgrade? Or what about an open-jaw where I can get the upgrade to a city and return from another close-by city with just a small or short coach connection? For instance, recently on a trip in the U.S., I was able to snag an upgrade from Denver to New York, but nothing on the return so I routed myself in coach from New York to Philadelphia and then on to Denver (upgraded) with almost no connection time in Philadelphia.

It works for me and once you learn this type of upgrade method, you can get pretty fast at knowing where to look and which connections work best. For me, I’d much rather do this than grovel in front of all the other passengers at the check-in desk!

We’ve heard that you only ever travel in economy. In your opinion, who offers the best service at the back of the plane?

This really could be considered a tricky question since I typically zone myself out when traveling and really don’t notice much of anything. Now, having said that, for me they are all the same since I am only interested in legroom and will fight for that exit row seating, no matter the airline. I am a fan of any airline that has extended coach seating like United’s E+ and the Virgin and OpenSkies product to name a few. In defining “service” as “customer service”, I can truly say that there is not an airline I have ever flown that I have not had a pleasant experience on (it just comes with the odds of traveling so much)… But then again, there is not an airline I have ever flown that I have not had an unpleasant experience on. So, no matter the airline, I’m pretty neutral to them all.


Finding Paradise in the Perhentian Islands

September 11, 2008

By Rachel Turner

Groggy with sleep, I pulled back the mosquito net from around my bed and headed to the bathroom for a shower. With my hand on the tap, I looked up at the ceiling. A scream caught in my throat as I grabbed a towel and rushed out of the wooden chalet into the early morning sun. I bounded down the stairs and headed toward the front desk to ask someone to remove the wine bottle-sized gecko from my bathroom. Before I made it though I was greeted by another lizard; this one as big as a toddler.

When I landed on Malaysia’s Perhentian Kecil (“Small Perhentian”), I was stunned. I didn’t believe that a place like this still existed. I thought finding such a sweet slice of paradise would require a mid-Pacific shipwreck. But there I was, a mere 19 kilometres from mainland Malaysia, toe deep in island clichés. The clear turquoise water quietly slurped at white beaches of sugar-fine sand. Tiny wooden chalets stood alert at the jungle’s edge, ready for lodgers. Lush green flora blanketed the soaring cliffs. Every sunset was postcard perfect, every day bright and hot. Save for my abnormally large lizard neighbours, the place was straight out of a fantasy.

Given that the island I was staying on was little more than sand and jungle, being entertained indoors was out of the question. I couldn’t wait to dive into the warm, clear water. Dive shops are littered all along Long Beach (the more populous of Kecil’s two beaches). They offer a variety of courses for beginners, as well as a ton of fun dives. Divers can swim through the Temple of the Sea, check out the coral garden at De Lagoon, or explore the sunken Sugar Ship Wreck. I was told that the water surrounding the island is home to barracudas, sea turtles, triggerfish, unicornfish, groupers, and the list goes on and on.

I’m more adept at skimming the surface and for RM 40 (US$11.50 / £6.50) I joined an all-day snorkelling tour. Bright and early, I boarded a boat with only three others. Our first stop was a coral garden where curious fish swam around me, brave ones nipping at my fingertips. Over the course of the afternoon we stopped at Shark Point, home to black tipped reef sharks, swam with sea turtles near Perhentian Besut, and stopped for lunch in a quaint fishing village. Before heading back to home base, we made a final stop on a deserted beach to soak up the sun.

My days spent in the Perhentians involved a lot of rest and relaxation. I swam, snorkelled, and strolled through the jungle. I popped down to the Bubu Long Beach Resort for a massage in a beachside cabana. I sipped fruity cocktails while watching the technicolour sunset. The island was without a serious party vibe. Pounding all-night discos were replaced with driftwood tables on the sand, lively conversation, and a few beers amongst new friends.

On Perhentian Kecil, most hotels and restaurants are scattered along Long Beach and Coral Bay, on the opposite site of the island. Long Beach, the livelier of the two, was where the majority of backpackers congregated. I checked out a few guesthouses and settled on the Panorama Chalets (http://malaysia-panorama.com), smack in the middle of the beach. For RM 100 (US$29 / £16), I secured a double room complete with air con and hot water… when the electricity was on (be sure to ask about electricity hours before checking into your hotel. Most places do not have 24-hour electricity). Movies are shown every night, and many room rates include free dinner from a fully-stocked restaurant.

Clean, clear air, peaceful solitude, and a pace just above a standstill drew me to Malaysia’s Perhentian Islands. Forgoing big-city conveniences like Internet cafes and roads made me not want to leave. While there, bright white sand, lush jungle, polychromatic coral, and a few abnormally large lizards surrounded me. By the time I left, I truly felt like I had got away from it all.

TRAVELLER’S CHECK

Getting There: If you are starting your journey from Kuala Lumpur, catch an Air Asia flight to Kota Bharu (www.airasia.com). From the airport, catch a taxi or bus to the ferry terminal in Kuala Besut. A taxi with air-con will cost around RM 70. From there, hop on a speed boat for a 45-minute ride to Perhentian Kecil. Boat tickets cost RM 60 each way, plus pay the extra RM 2 fee to be dropped off at Long Beach instead of at the jetty. A cheaper, slower ferry is also available.

Where to Stay: Panorama Chalet is located in the centre of Long Beach. Double rooms with air conditioning and attached bathroom cost RM 100. Opt for shared bath and fan-cooled rooms to cut down on costs. Visit their website for more information: http://malaysia-panorama.com. If you choose to stay on the opposite side of the island at Coral Bay, check out the Senja Bay Resort. Here a fan room will set you back RM 100. The views from this hotel are stunning, and the staff is friendly. Holiday packages and other rates can be found at www.senjabay.com

Where to Eat: Most restaurants on Kecil are attached to hotels. The Panorama Chalet restaurant serves up local Malay food as well as western favourites. For a meal that’s a little more up-market, check out the menu at Bubu Long Beach Resort.